Savage diffs problem

[Jaydan1219]

Hey people, so I shimmed my savage 25 diffs and put a new ring and pinion In there and after 20 mins of running I've already killed the pinion.. no jumps or anything. I checked the shims and there all fine and the mesh is fine.. what could be the problem. I don't want to upgrade to bulletproof diffs I wanna stop it from happening in the first place. This is the 3rd pinion I've killed.

Thanks

 

[olds97_lss]

Are the bearings good? The thin bearing on the cup side has a tendency to blow out, which is what usually happens when I cooked a diff. Also inspect the gear box halves very closely, you my have a hairline crack that you can't see when it's not under load.

When I had a pre-X savage, I ran alloy gearbox halves to help reduce diff issues. Up until then, I'd burn up a ring and pinion on a fairly frequent basis if I wasn't really easy on it. The X halves hold true a lot better. From what I recall, part of my issue with the pre-X case is that I didn't have enough room to add enough shims to help the issue. With the alloy ones, the tolerances were far enough off that it left room for shimming properly. Even still, when that cup side bearing went out, it would usually take the ring and pinion with it.

 

[Jaydan1219]

Are the bearings good? The thin bearing on the cup side has a tendency to blow out, which is what usually happens when I cooked a diff. Also inspect the gear box halves very closely, you my have a hairline crack that you can't see when it's not under load.

When I had a pre-X savage, I ran alloy gearbox halves to help reduce diff issues. Up until then, I'd burn up a ring and pinion on a fairly frequent basis if I wasn't really easy on it. The X halves hold true a lot better. From what I recall, part of my issue with the pre-X case is that I didn't have enough room to add enough shims to help the issue. With the alloy ones, the tolerances were far enough off that it left room for shimming properly. Even still, when that cup side bearing went out, it would usually take the ring and pinion with it.

Hi, thanks for the reply!
I took it apart now and noticed that there is still some play in the diff. So I added another shim.. and it reduced it to 0 play. There is no play between ring and pinion but they spin nicely. I left the pinion with a tooth missing in there since it still spins smoothly. If I breaks more I will investigate more

Thanks

 

[olds97_lss]

Hi, thanks for the reply!
I took it apart now and noticed that there is still some play in the diff. So I added another shim.. and it reduced it to 0 play. There is no play between ring and pinion but they spin nicely. I left the pinion with a tooth missing in there since it still spins smoothly. If I breaks more I will investigate more

Thanks

If you get tired of fighting with it, you can get BP non-oem ring/pinion pretty cheap from rc4me.us:
https://rc4me.us/product-category/hpisavage/gears/

Can get two sets for about $45. I haven't tried them myself, but I have run the super 5sc transmission with center diff that they offer in my flux hp and the steel gears in it are holding up great.